Page 52 - HAND EMBROIDERY ARTISAN_TT

Punjberg Stitch Type Filled with Sozni stitch – satin, shading,
The term “Punjberg” refers to: or fine directional lines

Punjberg — Five Leaf Motif Symbolism Represents fertility, nature, and
elegance in traditional art
• “Punj” means five in Persian/Urdu
Common designs using badaam
• “Berg” means leaf
• Single badaam: Used with minimalistic layout or fine
So, Punjberg literally means a motif of five leaves — a shawls
stylized leaf cluster that is often used to enhance the
richness and symmetry of a Sozni design. • Badaam with Gul (Flower): Almond surrounded by
floral patterns
Features of Punjberg in Sozni
• Badaam bail: A continuous vine with repeating
• Design structure badaam shapes
- Typically has one central leaf and four surrounding Color & detailing
it
• Often filled with green, beige, brown, or contrast tones
- Arranged in a star, fan, or circular layout
• Outlined with dark thread to highlight the almond
• Placement shape
- Used in main body motifs, corners, or gaadikund/ • Sometimes shaded for 3D effect using closely packed
charkoon designs Sozni stitches

- Sometimes accompanies flowers (gul) or paisley zeal
(kairi)
The term “Zeal” (also spelled “Zil”, “Zeel”) refers to:
Stitch & colors
Zeal — Outline stitch
• Technique: Done in fine Sozni stitch with intricate
detailing • “Zeal” in Sozni means the fine outline or border line
of a motif.
• Shading: May include light-to-dark green shades or
other contrasting tones for visual depth • It is a delicate stitch that defines the edges of flowers,
leaves, paisleys, and vines after the motif has been
• Highlighting: Sometimes outlined in darker thread filled with color.
to emphasize form
Role of zeal in sozni embroidery
Use in motif composition
Feature Description
Leaf
Motif Common use Function Gives sharpness, definition, and clarity
count to the motif
Berg 1 Basic element, filler Position Always worked after the main filling is
Duberg 2 Borders, vines done
Seberg 3 Medium motifs, corner work Thread Usually darker or contrasting color
Punjberg 4 Larger motifs, focal points (e.g., black, maroon, deep green)

Badaam Stitch Style Done with fine needlework, smooth and
continuous outlines
The term “Badaam” refers to:
Importance Essential for giving the finished look to
Badaam almond motif the design
• “Badaam” means almond in Persian/Urdu Common practice

• It represents a stylized almond-shaped motif, which • A Chinar leaf, for example, is filled with different
is long and oval, tapering at both ends shades — and then outlined with Zeal to sharpen its
Features of badaam motif in sozni borders.
• Even the Badaam, Duberg, or Paisley (Kairi) motifs
Feature Description are incomplete without this final Zeal outline.
Shape Almond-shaped – pointed at both ends,
rounded in the center
Size Can be small (filler) or large (main motif)
Placement Used in borders, central panels, butidar
(dotted) arrangements

42 H & C: Hand Embroidery Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.6.27-37